Reached in just two hours by train from London, the northern French town of Arras has shared a history with beer since the Middle Ages. Today, visitors can enjoy a diverse range of craft breweries, beer bars, food and beer pairings and even learn to brew a beer of their own.
Arras and beer: a brief history
In Arras and the surrounding area of the Pays d’Artois, beer takes centre stage. A text found in the municipal archives shows that the first mention of spring beer in Arras (known as ‘March beer’) goes back as far as 1394 – the oldest written evidence of a spring beer in the Hauts-de-France region. This beer was made in the depths of winter, which offered the optimum temperature conditions, and was stored in cold cellars until the arrival of spring. In fact, cold temperatures are most conducive to fermentation and storage, unlike hot summer temperatures which aren’t favourable for stable beers.
The ‘March beer’ was the most highly valued and was advertised by innkeepers by means of a juniper wreath placed on their doors. The values of hospitality endure in Arras, epitomised in the Middle Ages by the Saint-Vaast Abbey which boasted the largest brewery. As far back as the sixth century, Saint Benedict had imposed upon monks the obligation to offer accommodation and sustenance to travellers and pilgrims. So beer became an important symbol of their hospitality. This historical background makes Arras an accepted and tradition-based stronghold in a rapidly developing brewing region.
A diverse range of craft breweries
A number of craft breweries have been set up in Arras in recent years – and all have something different to offer. The only brewer located within Arras itself, L’Arras’In, is just a stone’s throw from the belltower and was included in the last Hachette Beer Guide compiled by zythologist Élisabeth Pierre, together with the Brasserie Paysanne de l’Artois (see below). Brasserie des 7 Bonnettes is one of the oldest craft breweries of the craft beer ‘revival’, while Brasserie La Rivière was created as a cooperative comprising 37 members, and is open to the public.
Focus: La Brasserie Paysanne de l’Artois, brewery and malt house
This organic micro-brewery was established in 2014 on a mixed organic farm in Gavrelle, a few kilometres outside Arras. It produces craft beers from its own crops, something not found anywhere else north of Paris. Mathieu Glorian is therefore a farmer, brewer and malt producer. He has set up his own micro-malt house and offers a dozen or so different organic beers with a production volume of 500hl/year.
bierepaysanne.fr
THE TOP 8 BREWERIES OF THE PAYS D’ARTOIS
- L’Arras’In (Arras)
- L’Intemporelle (Wailly)
- Brasserie de l’Estoupette (Riencourt-lès-Cagnicourt)
- Brasserie Paysanne de L’Artois (Gavrelle)
- Brasserie la Rivière (Rivière)
- Brasserie des 7 Bonnettes (Etaing)
- Brasserie La Chope de l’Artois (Bailleulmont)
- Brasserie Origine’Ale (Gouy-en-Artois)
Beer bars brimming with fizz and sparkle
There are plenty of beer bars where you can sample local, regional and national beers, not to mention beers from all over the world. They include Chez Marcel and La Capsule, a trailblazer voted the 23rd best beer bar in the world by ratebeer.com in 2021.
Luka Antonic, Arras’ beer expert
This zythologist (beer expert) runs Chez Marcel, a bar on Rue de la Taillerie and the place to be for beer lovers. Here you can sample the latest trends and output from craft brewers across the region, the country and the whole world. Luka runs engaging tasting sessions with cheese and charcuterie boards for grazing.
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Food and beer pairings at l’Oeuf ou la Poule
This is a must-visit restaurant in Arras, a stone’s throw from the Place des Héros. L’Oeuf ou la Poule is the haunt of chef Gabriel Asseman, who has chosen to put his two favourite products on the menu – eggs and poultry – and to serve them in creative dishes. A partner of Arras Pays d’Artois Tourism for numerous events, Gabriel also serves around 15 local beers and has joined forces with Luka Antonic to offer a menu of food/beer pairings. He organises special food/beer evenings several times a year, featuring five courses each served with a different beer – several of these take place in the boves (Arras’ underground tunnels) during the festive season.
loeufoulapoule.fr
At Home Bière: Try your hand at brewing
In Athies, to the east of Arras, you can play the role of an apprentice brewer. Unique in France, the concept was created in Lille seven years ago by Maxime Dupré andhas since been duplicated here on the banks of the Scarpe. The aim is to introduce a local tradition, have fun and learn how to make your own beer (and label) in just four hours. Participants learn all parts of the brewing process from crushing and mashing to simmering and fermentation.
athomebiere.com
Further information
Browse the 2023 press kit
Visit the Arras-Pays d’Artois website
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